A Jeweled Legacy: Jewelry Exhibition Catalogue

by Elizabeth Doyle April 26, 2018

Our newest jewelry exhibition is on view now at our New York City boutique! Just in time for Mother's Day on May 13, we invite you to explore your jewelry legacy. Make a date to visit and peruse these beautiful jewels and maybe pick up a little something special for Mom.

Shop the A Jeweled Legacy Collection.

A Jeweled Legacy Introduction

A legacy is something handed down; from generation to generation. An item owned and cherished by an ancestor, it is imbued with family history and lore and holds value beyond the mere monetary. This is even more true when the legacy is a well loved jewel. But in order for a legacy to really live on, it must transcend the past to find life in the present. In this exhibition, we explore these jewels of the past and their connection to today. How were they worn then and how do we reinterpret their style now? With this information in mind, we transport these legacy jewels through time to our current culture with its modern influences. As with everything, especially fashion and design, we look towards the past to inform the present, always striving to keep it fresh and relevant in our contemporary context. Historical pieces become more interesting when worn in unexpected ways, remixed with contemporary jewels and pieces from different time periods.

--Elizabeth Doyle

Legacy Theme 1: Architectural Glam

Above: Portrait of Alden Gay by Edward Steichen, 1924

 

Art Deco jewelry was all about bold geometry and dramatic contrasting colors. In all areas of 1920s and 30s design, we see discipline and rigidity, even as there was a freewheeling spirit in the air. In the 1924 portrait of actress Alden Gay, she wears a full suite of beautiful opulent jewels, but in a restrained manner. Each piece serves its specific function, while all together, the full ensemble illustrates a sense of luxurious refinement.

In our updated look, we eschew the staid matchiness and break the rules a bit. Our Art Deco diamond and sapphire brooch is pinned a little off kilter to a diamond chain. Lustrous jade beads provide a beautiful soft contrast to the icy preciseness of the diamonds. Large rock crystal briolette earring drops are dramatic and flashy, but don’t take themselves so seriously.

1. Art Deco 3.10ctw Diamond & Sapphire Pin/Pendant. Platinum. 106912P $18000

2. Vintage Oval Moonstone, Diamond & Onyx Ring. Platinum and 18k gold. Circa 1930. 106528R $1800

3. Art Deco Old European Diamond and Onyx Plaque Ring. 14k gold. Circa 1935. 106234R $2950

4. French Cut & Round Diamond Eternity Band. Platinum. Contemporary. 4151-06 $4650

5. Vintage Cushion Cut 2.06ct & Old European Cut Diamond Cluster Ring. 14k gold. Circa 1930. 106934R $15800

6. Vintage Jade & Gold Bead Necklace. 107222N $1100

7. Vintage Art Deco Style 6.5ctw Diamond Drop Earrings. Platinum and 18k gold. 107209E $12500

8. Marble, Zircon & Ruby Drop Earrings. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. 18k gold. HE-0182-8W $985

9. Hex Diamond & Rose Quartz Drop Earrings. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. 18k gold. HE-0016-8P $1850

10. Vintage Art Deco Style Diamond & Cabochon Sapphire Drop Earrings. Platinum and 18k gold. 106579E $9850

11. Art Deco Amethyst Ring. 14k gold. 107006R $495

12. Vintage Double Aquamarine & Sapphire Filigree Ring. 14k gold. 107043R $695

13. Pearl, Diamond & Rock Crystal Drop Earrings. 14k white gold. Vintage components with new rock crystal drops. 099139E $2600

14. Art Deco Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl, Ruby & Old Mine Cut 3.20ctw Diamond Bracelet. Platinum. Circa 1920. 106905B $18000

15. Vintage Pearl & Baguette Cut 4.75ctw Diamond Hair Clip. Platinum. 107221P $21000

16. Vintage Round Brilliant Cut 28.0ctw Diamond Chain. 18k gold. 106262N $48000

17. Art Deco Coral, Natural Pearl & Diamond Earrings. Platinum and 18k gold. Circa 1925. French hallmarks. 106955E $14500

18. Vintage Emerald Cut 31.0ct Citrine Cocktail Ring. 14k gold. 107227R $2950

Above: Models in Nettie Rosenstein Dresses by Horst P. Horst. Vogue November 1, 1940

 

Retro Moderne jewelry of the 1940s is a direct descendant of the geometric boldness of Art Deco design, but bigger and bolder, more colorful, and sexier. Doing more with less was the mantra of WWII jewelers. Many jewels were convertible and multifunctional, often set with large semi-precious stones, like citrine or aquamarine, for maximum impact. Stacked wide gold bracelets were used to great effect to create a variety of big and bold statements. Stylish women also wore clips and brooches in a myriad of ways.  We especially love how the 1940s Vogue models are styled with gemstone clips in their hair.

Clips and brooches look as chic today worn in the hair as they did 70 years ago. Whether in the hair, on a lapel, or even on your bag, brooches are one of the most versatile pieces of jewelry in your collection. Similarly, layered bracelets are a perennial must have, but the key to wearing them well today is to mix up the stack. All one style or time period can look a little like a costume or uniform, so mix your antique, vintage, and contemporary all together to create an authentic look.

1. Vintage Emerald Cut 25.0ct Citrine & Diamond Ring. 14k gold. 107204R $4800

2. Retro Amethyst Crossover Necklace. 18k gold. Unidentified hallmarks. 4359N $2200

3. Victorian Etruscan Revival Coiled Wire Wide Bangle Bracelet. 14k gold. Circa 1870. 090346B $3900

4. Vintage Engraved Star Bangle Bracelet. 14k gold. 106897B $2850

5. Retro Sapphire & Diamond Scroll Clip Earrings. 14k gold. Circa 1950. 4179E $3800

6. Vintage Pearl & Diamond Feather Clips Earrings. 14k gold. Circa 1960. 4443E $5200

7. Retro Citrine & Diamond Double Clip Brooches. 14k gold. Circa 1950. 4169P $3200

8. Vintage Ruby Cluster Flower Clip Brooch. 14k gold. Circa 1960. 4336P $1600

9. Victorian Harlequin Faceted Gemstone Bracelet. 14k gold, amethyst, smoky quartz, and variously hued citrine. 106985B $4950

10. Antique Oval Synthetic Sapphire Bangle Bracelet. 18k gold. 107047B $3400

11. Retro Citrine Double Clip Brooch. 14k gold. Circa 1940. 4189P $3500

12. Retro 19.8ct Citrine Scroll Brooch. 18k gold. Circa 1945. 4363P $1600

13. Retro Aquamarine & Ruby Brooch. 18k rose gold. Circa 1950. 4983P $3200

Legacy Theme: Restrained Opulence

Above: Publicity photo of actress Louise Brooks, circa 1920

 

These ladies, although almost 100 years apart, have taken a page from the same jewelry styling rule book. They each focus on one category, really piling it on, while paring down their other jewelry. Madame de Senonnes, painted by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, appears to have an affinity for, and an impressive collection of, ruby and diamond rings. She stacks them in twos and threes on multiple fingers creating a personal story across her hands. She also wears earrings, long chains, and pendants, but it is the rings that really stand out and seem to be her signature. Early film actress Louise Brooks, on the other hand, piles on an armful of Art Deco diamond bracelets. They seem to be trophies, each one signifying a personal triumph and together give the look of diamond encrusted armor.

An armful of diamond bracelets can go from dressed up to edgy to casual, depending on how you wear them. Even when more formal Art Deco diamond bracelets are stacked together, they can create a glittery, festive look with pops of bright colors.

1. Vintage Filigree Square Cut Sapphire Bracelet. 14k gold. 106992B $1485

2. Vintage Engraved Rock Crystal & Diamond Filigree Pendant. 14k gold. 107000N $1400

3. Art Deco Diamond Sapphire & Pearl Mesh Sautoir Necklace. Platinum. Circa 1920. 096846N $9800

4. Art Deco 10.00ct Diamond & Sapphire Checkerboard Bracelet. Platinum. 106901B $22000

5. Art Deco Square Cut Sapphire Bracelet. Platinum. 106902B $15000

6. Art Deco Alternating Sapphire & Diamond Bracelet. Platinum. 106748B $14500

7. Art Deco Diamond & Emerald Bracelet, 7.16ctw. Platinum. Circa 1930. 100913B $24000

8. Art Deco Citrine Briolette & Marquise Necklace,. 14k gold. Length 18 inches. 107202N $2850

9. Antique Citrine Briolette Pendant Necklace. 14k gold. 107197N $1800

Above: Madame de Senonnes by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1814

 

Stacks of sentimental rings are a great way to mix and match different looks, as well as celebrate an occasion or milestone. Rings are arguably the most personal of jewels, and as you build your collection, your favorite stack becomes a wearable scrapbook.

1. Mid Victorian Engraved Cross Locket Pendant. Compartment with plaited hair, engraved "Oct. 9th 1857". 18k gold. 100534N $2800

2. “Starry Night” Fancy Gray 0.73ct Old European Cut Diamond Ring. Silver and 18k gold. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. BE-0170-RB-8YS $5800

3. Victorian Renaissance Revival 0.66ct Old European Cut Diamond Ring. 18k gold, taille d'epargne black enamel. Circa 1900. 106175R $3200

4. Victorian Long Chain Necklace. Plain and rope links, in 15k gold. Circa 1880. 102367N $5200

5. Victorian Natural 1.04ct Cushion Cut Ruby Ring. 14k gold. Circa 1885. 105883R $6400

6. Ruby Cabochon Scroll Sides Ring. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. 18k gold. 094093R $595
7. Antique Ruby & Diamond Bypass Double Cluster Ring. 14k gold. 107014R $895

8. Antique Cabochon Garnet & 0.30ctw Diamond Ring. 14k gold. Circa 1880. 106383R $2950

9. Georgian Foil-Backed Garnet & Rose Cut Diamond Ring. Silver and gold. 107173R $1850

10. Victorian Bohemian Garnet Drop Earrings. 14k and low karat gold. 106372E $1800

11. Antique Two Fob Necklace. 18k gold. French hallmarks. 106351N $4800

13. Antique Fancy Link Guard Chain. Fancy oval bar links. 18k gold. French hallmarks. Circa 1900. 105368N $3800

12. Vintage Long Chain Necklace. Papyrus motif links. 18k gold. French hallmarks. 105254N $3800

14. Compass Charm Necklace. FB 1605 NATO Survival Button Compass and 14k gold. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. 091859N $750

Legacy Theme: Artful Romance

Above: Monna Vanna by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1866

 

The jewels worn in this 1866 Pre-Raphaelite painting by Dante Gabriel Rossetti evoke an undeniable femininity and a romantic lushness in their layering. The lady’s clothing is over the top opulent and her jewelry matches that richness. The eclectic mix of jewels is also surprisingly modern - tumbled coral strands, statement rings, a chunky animal head bangle, and sparkling hair clips. There are references to nature, so important to the Pre-Raphaelites, incorporated through the use of materials and design styles.

1. Cushion Cut Lapis & Diamond Ring. 18k gold. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. HR-0015-8P $985

2. Victorian Engraved Star Sapphire Ring. 18k and silver. Circa 1890. 100909R $4800

3. Vintage Oval Cabochon Lapis Ring. 14k gold. 106959R $895

4. Victorian Crystal Pendant With Purple Fly. Pate de Verre glass fly, lead crystal, 14k gold. Circa 1900. 099442N $1200

5. Victorian Etruscan Garnet Bead Drop Earrings. 14k gold. Length 2 1/4 inches. 106975E $4450

6. Antique Coral Bead Necklace. 14k gold clasp. Length 21 inches. 107199N $1800

7. Victorian Cabochon Garnet & Enamel Oval Pendant/Locket with Fringe. 14k bloomed gold. Circa 1860.103740N $5200

8. Natural Heart Shaped 0.64ct Diamond Crystal Ring. 18k gold. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. HR-0171-8Y $4450

9. Ouroboros Snake Diamond Bangle Bracelet. 10k gold. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. HB-0163-10k $2800

10. Victorian Ornate Orb & Chain Drop Earrings. 15k gold. 106615E $2450

11. Antique Coral Bead Necklace. Length 60 inches. 107198N $3200

12. Art Nouveau Coral Mermaid Ring. 14k gold. Maker’s mark for Durand & Co. Circa 1900. 105902R $4950

13. Antique Coral Bead Necklace. Length 28.5 inches. 107200N $2900

14. Victorian Floral Pearl Drop Earrings. 14k gold. 107038E $785

15. Antique Rococo Style Opal & Diamond Angel Pendant. 14k bloomed gold. Unidentified maker's mark. Circa 1900. 6672N $3200

16. Vintage Mirror Pendant. 14k gold. Circa mid-20th century. 100330N $1,300

17. Vintage Pearl Brooch. 14k gold. 107220P $1250

18. Antique Baroque Freshwater Pearl & Diamond Ring. 22k and 14k gold. Circa 1900 top with newer base and shank. 094183R $3600

Above: Publicity photo of actress Evelyn Nesbit, circa 1910

  

The portrait of acclaimed “Gibson Girl” Evelyn Nesbit similarly depicts a romanticized view of femininity from the 1910s. As a model, actor, and show girl, it was Evelyn’s job to represent and sell a product or idea. In this photo, her coquettish gaze, ruffled dress and romantic jewelry evoke an innocent sensuality. Like the Rosetti painting, there is a lushness and opulence to the image, albeit in a much more pared down manner.

In our contemporary styling, we layer a variety of jewels from our collection to create two different looks. The richly luxe styling, inspired by the Rossetti portrait, relies on natural materials and rich jewel tones. The Gibson Girl inspired styling uses delicate, sentimental pieces to create a romantic feel.

1. Antique Star Set Diamond Heart Locket. 14k gold. Circa early 20th century. 104520N $1200

2. Victorian Enamel Morning Glory Heart Pendant. 14k gold. 107112N $685

3. Three Cognac Rose Cut Diamond Ring. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. 18k gold. 105932R $1800

4. Ouroboros Diamond Snake Ring. Contemporary, Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle. 18k gold. HR-0163-8Y $750

5. Antique Turquoise & Pearl Ring. 10k gold. 107010R $295

6. Red & Green Garnet Doublet & Pearl Navette Ring. 14k gold. 105969R $385

7. Antique Diamond & Seed Pearl Heart Pin/Pendant. 14k gold. Circa 1910. 096424N $1800

8. Vintage Seed Pearl Crescent Necklace. 14k rose gold. 107146N $965

9. Edwardian Diamond & Pearl Crescent Pin. Platinum-topped 14k gold. Circa 1905. 106657P $1950

10. Edwardian 3.77ctw Diamond Crescent & Scroll Brooch Pendant. Platinum and 18k gold. Circa 1905. 5194P $7500

11. Pearl & Diamond Drop Pendant Necklace. 107203N $4800

12. Art Nouveau Amethyst & Pearl Festoon Necklace. 14k gold. 094239N $1500

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